CUMBERLAND ISLAND
The Last Wild Coastal Island in the World
CUMBERLAND is the largest barrier island on the east
coast of the United States. Located off the Georgia/Florida border,
Cumberland is about the size of Manhattan, but it has only 25 full-time
residents. During the Ice Age Cumberland was formed by temperature changes
and is still in constant flux today due to the weather and tide. Beginning
about 4,000 years ago Native Americans, the 6 1/2-foot-tall Timucuans,
live on Cumberland and call it Tacatacuru or Missoe. Piles of oyster
shell, which were later used for building tabby structures, are the
only evidence of this groups existence. In the mid-1500's, the Spanish
came to Cumberland and built San Pedro Fort Mission in attempts to convert
the Timucuan to Christianity. In the early 1700's the English unseat
the Spanish. During the two countries struggle, Creek Indians side with
English. General James Oglethorpe renames the island, Cumberland after
a suggestion made by the Chief's son, Toonahowi, who had visited the
Duke of Cumberland. The English build two forts at north and south end
of the island (Fort St. Andrews and Fort Prince William). They also
build a hunting lodge known as Dungeness, named after one of the Duke's
homes. In 1783, Revolutionary War General Nathaniel Greene planned the
design of his own Dungeness on the same site, but died of heat stroke
before it's complete. His widow Catherine Greene, remarries Phineas
Miller and together they build the mansion. The Millers intend to harvest
the live oak timber for the shipbuilding industry. Eli Whitney is a
guest of the Millers and is helped by one of the Miller family in finishing
his invention, the Cotton Gin.
The 1800's sees Agriculture, especially Sea Island Cotton,
supplant the early lumbering activities. A number of large plantations
are built on the Island. The Cumberland plantation era ends when Union
troops round up slaves and send them to Amelia Island. The Chimneys
at Stafford are all that is left of the slave cabins. Many freed people
re-established themselves in a part of the island called "The Settlement."
Dungeness burns. In 1881 Thomas Carnegie, brother of financier Andrew,
purchases Dungeness property and begins building on the same foundation.
Carnegie dies, and his widow, Lucy Coleman Carnegie, finishes Dungeness.
It is an incredible mansion with dozens of rooms, and an indoor swimming
pool. She also purchases 90 percent of the Island. Dungeness closed
in 1920. 1972 - After some fear of commercialization, Cumberland Island
National Seashore was established under the supervision of Department
of Interior. There is a "limited access" arrangement for campers and
daytrippers to come to the island. Some longtime private owners have
the option to retain rights for themselves. In 1975 the first ferry
boat of daytrippers arrive on Cumberland. The only lodging on the island
is the nine-room Greyfield Inn, a house that was once a Carneigie mansion.
Mrs. Lucy Ferguson, granddaughter of Thomas Carnegie, owns the inn and
1,300 acres surrounding it. Her adult grandchildren manage the Inn.
Five mansions remain on the Island: Greyfield, Plum Orchard (now a museum),
the Grange (owned by the Johnsons of Kentucky), and Stafford and Highpoint
(owned by the Chandlers). Most of the island is wild. 300 species of
birds come to feed and nest on Cumberland. There are also deer, wild
turkeys, alligators, otters, raccoons, and sea turtles. The island has
an intertwined collection of habitats - sand beaches, dunes, interdune
meadows, live oak forests, ponds and marshes. Cumberland's marsh is
one of the most expansive in the world.

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